Finish: Polished Brass
Material: Solid Brass
Repairs damaged doors
Assists in preventing forced entry
Dimensions: 1” x 4-1/2”
Door Thickness: 1-3/8”
Fits standard size doors
Screws at base of box strike secure to
2″ x 4″ framing for added security
Dimensions: 1-1/4″ x 4-7/8″
Door Thickness: All
1. Mark center of bolt on frame.
2. Cut out template (see insert), locate center mark on template with center mark on frame. Tape in place.
3. Draw around outside of template. Mark 4 holes through template. Drill 1″ holes per template.
4. Chisel out between 1″ holes and fit strike box.
5. Chisel out 1/8″ deep for strike.
6. Install strike and faceplate with top and bottom screws. (Be sure 2 holes in strike box are toward center of frame.)
7. Drill two 1/8″ pilot holes at bottom of strike box toward center of frame and install screws at an angle.
SKU: 1105, 1105-SN
Finishes: Polished Brass & Satin Nickel
Latch hold-back (prevents locking yourself out)
5-pin tumbler with hardened steel pins
1-1/4″ bore required
Spring latch for automatic locking
Door Thickness: 1-3/8″ to 2-1/4″
Key Blank: Weiser Blank WR2/WR3
1. At desired height bore the hole for the cylinder 1-1/4″ diameter, with center at a distance of 2-3/8″ from edge of door.
2. Insert cylinder and ring from he outside of door and place back plate on inside of door. Connect back plate to cylinder with two connecting screws. Cut screws to proper length relative to door thickness.
3. Cut off connecting bar so that it projects 3/8″ beyond inside of door.
4. Plack lock on door so that connecting bar enters slot. Mark holes. Remove lock and drill 1/8″ pilot holes. Attache lock to door by inserting screws through lock into door.
5. Place strike plate on door jamb. Mark holes. Remove strike plate and drill 1/8″ pilot holes.
6. As needed, use chisel to cut door jamb so that strike is flush with door jamb.
Proposition 65 Warning
$18.09 – $23.79
Single cylinder locking unit & strike
Locks door to jamb to prevent forced entry
1-1/4″ bore required
Includes tamper-resistant shutter guard
CAUTION: Do not unscrew small retaining screws at rear of cylinder. Use only dry lubricant (graphite) on lock. Keep keyway clear of foreign objects.
1. Select convenient height for lock and place template against edge of door.
2. Mark hole positions. Bore 1-3/8″ hole for cylinder where indicated. Note: Bore through door until tip of drill barely emerges from other side. Remove drill bit and complete hole by drilling from opposite side to reduce splintering.
3. Drill 3/32″ diameter holes 1/2″ deep for attachment screws.
4. Insert cylinder and trim ring from outside of door. Attache backplate with two connecting bolts. Note: If bolts are too long, saw or break at groove, using caution to avoid marring the thread.
5. Cut or break connecting bar so it projects 3/8″ to 1/2″ beyond the inside of the door.
6. Plack lock on door so connecting bar enters “X” slot in back of lock. Secure with large mounting screws.
7. Align strike carefully, using template as a guide. Draw outline of strike on door jamb trim and chisel wood away (mortise) so strike mates freely with locking bars.
8. Mark mounting holes for strike, drill pilot holes, and secure strike to door jamb with screws provided.
SKU: 1041, 1041-SN
Finish: Polished Brass, Solid Stainless Steel, Vintage Bronze, Chrome & Satin Nickel
Use on wood or metal jambs
Common replacement for most Grade 2 & 3 locksets
Dimensions: 1-1/8″ x 2-3/4″
1. Remove old strike.
2. Place new strike on door jamb centered with latch hole.
3. Install screws provided and adjust tab with screw driver for proper fit.